T.I.C.D.: Chonburi coast & offshore islands (Part II: Sattahip)
Part two of the coastal shores of Chonburi province, condensed.
Welcome back to the Thai Island & Coastal Directory, a book-in-progress that promises to be the most complete guide to coastal Thailand ever written in English, covering more than 800 islands. For info on how to use the T.I.C.D. and a working Table of Contents, paddle over here. Thank you for reading!
T.I.C.D. ticker: So far, we’ve covered 351 islands and 79 mainland coastal areas in 24 sections, including this one.
Resuming Chonburi province…
This final section on the ‘Ocean Province’ joins the northern to central coasts and the island groups of Ko Si Chang, Ko Larn, Ko Phai, Ko Khram, Ao Sattahip and Ko Samae San, to complete a contribution that makes Chonburi, along with Prachuap Khiri Khan, one of the main island-and-beach provinces in the Upper Gulf.
Sattahip (Southern Chonburi coasts)
The Royal Thai Navy owns most of Sattahip district’s western and southern shores — more than 25 km in total — and while some of the unexpectedly serene and attractive beaches are off limits to the public, others are open. The area also hosts a few museums and a sea turtle conservation center, as well as several undeveloped islands, making it a semi-popular weekend destination for families.
The Ao Sattahip coast is home to Thailand’s largest Naval base. Large parcels of land, including a golf course, are set aside for Naval personnel and their guests, and statues of Popeye and Navy “frogmen” join several shrines and memorials. One isdedicated to Prince Abhakara Kiartivongse, the late son of King Chulalongkorn who is now considered the “father of the Royal Thai Navy.”
The hefty Naval presence is a turn off for many foreign travelers, but the difference between Sattahip’s mostly quiet shores and the seething tourism of Pattaya comes as a pleasant surprise to others. Some of the beaches are entirely closed to uninvited guests, particularly foreigners, and passing through several Navy-staffed checkpoints should be expected when exploring. I’ve yet to receive a hostile welcome from any of the Naval personnel, some of whom get to do jobs like driving trams full of tourists back and forth across Ko Samae San.
The district’s two main tourism hubs are Bang Saray and Ban Samae San, but neither are remotely busy compared to Pattaya or Ko Samet. Bang Saray is considered by many to be the tail end of the Pattaya coast, but it is part of Sattahip and has a low-key, family-friendly, beach-town vibe that contrasts greatly with Pattaya. At the opposite end of the Sattahip district coast, and blurring into the Eastern Gulf coastal zone, Ban Samae San is a fishing and leisure hub that is almost more connected to neighboring Rayong province than the rest of Chon.
Many of the foreigners who pass through Sattahip are heading to U-Tapao Airport, or over to Rayong province, where Ko Samet is a much bigger draw.
Sattahip is a one of a kind district — that is for sure.
Coastal areas and islands below are arranged from N to S then W to E.