T.I.C.D.: Ao Phang Nga (Part III: Mu Ko Yao & Mu Ko Hong)
All of the lovely southern islands of Phang Nga Bay, condensed.
Welcome back to the Thai Island & Coastal Directory, a book-in-progress that promises to be the most complete guide to coastal Thailand ever written in English, covering more than 800 islands and all 24 coastal provinces. An upgrade of $5 USD monthly gets you the T.I.C.D. and many other in-depth articles.
T.I.C.D. ticker: So far, we’ve covered 701 islands and 181 notable mainland areas in 38 sections, including this one. (To view all previously published sections, see the welcome page or the working Table of Contents.)
Resuming Ao Phang Nga…
This final section on Thailand’s best-known bay unravels one relatively large island group along with a smaller one sitting closer to the Krabi side that, in my opinion, boasts some of the finest scenery in all of Ao Phang Nga.
Resuming Phang Nga province…
Mu Ko Yao
The lower reaches of Ao Phang Nga host not only the bay’s two largest islands, but also one of Thailand’s largest: the formidable Ko Yao Yai. Across a narrow channel to the N, mid-size Ko Yao Noi also has room to wander. These two Yao or ‘Long’ islands are sisters in every way, anchoring a supporting cast of over 30 isles that are all part of A. Koh Yao — one of just 10 Thai districts made up only of islands.
The location of the Yao twins — E of Phuket, W of Ao Nang, N of Ko Phi Phi, and S of coastal Phang Nga — puts them in the middle of the Central Andaman tourism action, though you wouldn’t know it based on the mellow vibe. With a few seriously upmarket resorts joining smaller and mostly low- to mid-budget bungalow resorts, the Yaos attract travelers looking to relax, quietly and respectfully, on beaches that are never too far from the nearest mosque or village or field of buffalo. Clearly visible and easy to reach from both E Phuket and Krabi’s heavily touristed coast, the Yaos happily fill the roles of alternative beach destinations in the area. They also make for a leisurely entryway into the upper islands of Ao Phang Nga.
Both of them are lovely, with landscapes that often drop you quickly from mountainous jungle to cliffs to any dozens of beaches, including some that are well hidden. One beach, Laem Hat on Yao Yai, has appeared in films (The Meg anyone?) and been cited on “best beaches” listicles. The views from many parts of the Yaos’ lengthy coastlines can be special.
Parts of both islands, along with most of the group’s minor satellite isles, are under the control of Ao Phang Nga NP. First and foremost, though, the Yaos belong to a close-knit community of primarily Muslim Thai islanders, numbering some 12,000 between the two islands. The tourism in Mu Ko Yao falls firmly into the mid level of popularity, allowing the Yaos to remain green and arcadian.
A word to the wise: don’t forget how big Ko Yao Yai is when exploring it. Most tourism facilities are in the far N around Laem Hat, but head S from there and you’ll journey through miles of rural landscapes. Even without stopping, the trip from the top of Yao Yai to its tail by motorbike takes a solid hour, passing many unassuming side lanes that ramble up into rubber groves or down to the seacoast.
