T.I.C.D.: Intro to the Deep Southern Gulf of Thailand

Thailand's largest lake joins empty beaches and a rich history in the most offbeat of the country's seven coastal zones.

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The least popular of Thailand’s seven coastal zones from a travel standpoint, the Deep Southern Gulf spans the provinces of Phatthalung, Songkhla, Pattani and Narathiwat — and my coverage also touches on Yala, though it is landlocked. The zone only has around 35 islands, most of them in lakes and estuaries. Still, this region has a certain pull for travelers who enjoy veering as far off the beaten path as you can possibly go in coastal Thailand, if not the whole country.

Map is definitely not to scale.

Deep Southern Gulf: the TIQ take
This coastal zone largely lacks brilliant beaches and has the fewest islands of the seven zones, with a tourism industry that primarily serves Malaysians and Thais. A rarity in Songkhla and Phatthalung, Westerners are almost nonexistent in Pattani, Narathiwat and Yala, due to the armed conflict there.

In April 2004, the 16th-century Krua Se Mosque in Pattani was the scene of a bloody fight in which Thai forces killed 32 insurgents who had holed up inside after mounting coordinated attacks. It and the Tak Bai Massacre later that year were key incidents leading to more bloodshed in the ensuing years.

And yet, the Deep Southern Gulf does attract a handful of international travelers who tend to have considerable travel experience in Thailand (and/or Malaysia) or are simply keen to see a different slice of the country. There is no doubt, traveling around these parts can be more challenging than in the more popular areas. But visitors often find rewards just where the masses do not think to look.

“Look Harry, it is a farang.” (Caption credit: Stuart McDonald)

(Before spotlighting some of my favorite spots in this coastal zone, I want to clarify that Songkhla and Phatthalung, which, with notable exceptions in Hat Yai and Sadao, have largely been spared the violence that has blighted Pattani, Narathiwat and Yala. All five of these provinces fall under the term ‘Deep Southern Gulf’ for the purposes of this project, but I refer to the latter three as the ‘far southern’ provinces to differentiate them from Songkhla and Phatthalung.)