Welcome back to the Island Wrap, your window to coastal Thailand. The country is preparing to fully reopen domestically while allowing more foreigners in from overseas, even if international tourism is still a long way off.
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A big thanks to each and every subscriber for bearing with me over the first two months of publishing this newsletter. Apologies for missing the Island Wrap last week; recent versions of it had gotten so long — 4,000 words two weeks ago — that I again reconsidered how I manage this newsletter.
From now on, the weekly Island Wrap will always include environmental and wildlife news, but I’m going to start choosing only one other topic to focus on rather than going into detail about *everything* from coastal Thailand that’s making headlines. I’ll stick the best of the rest in the “other news” section so that you’ll still be able to stay informed. The domestic travel situation is this week’s topic.
I’m also going back to featuring selected islands, beaches, businesses, charities, websites and videos right here in the Island Wrap, rather than in the (short-lived) Island Breeze. However, I’ll only cover two or three of these categories per week because, let’s face it, there are only so many charities and websites that are specifically related to coastal Thailand to go around.
Rather than revealing exactly what’s coming up in the newsletter, I’ll only say that I’ve got a bundle of exciting stuff up my sleeve for July. Stay tuned!
Over on Couchfish, Stuart made his way into Vietnam after his “worst day of travel. Ever.” He posts something five days a week and it’s always a fun and informative read, so do check that out if you haven’t yet.
The giant ogress of Ko Samet will see you now.
Island of the week
Good news for Bangkokians in need of a beach: Ko Samet (Rayong) is reopening to tourism tomorrow. Though it’s one of 10 in Thailand that I classify as “primary tourism islands,” much of Samet’s inland terrain has been protected by the eponymous national park, and you’ll still find low-key beaches with affordable bungalows at spots like Ao Nuan and Ao Lung Dam. Some visitors dislike the crowded northern area and the fact that foreigners have to cough up 200 baht at the national park booth, but Samet remains an attractive island with a wide range of different scenes available. For more info, check out the guides on Travelfish and Travel Happy.
Business of the week
The magnificent Ang Thong islands are reopening to tourism tomorrow, and one of the finest ways to experience them is on a day tour with Blue Stars Kayaking. Based at Bophut on Ko Samui, this long-running tour company focuses on kayaking through the hidden sea caves that peg these karst isles. Guests can also snorkel, hike to viewpoints or simply relax on the triple-decker slow boat. If you’re thinking of a speedboat tour, go with Blue Stars instead. While they’re not open yet, I hope to see them and other small businesses get rolling again soon.
RIP Mr. Oudtai
The Thai island world recently lost a special person when Mr. Oudtai passed away after a battle with cancer. Anyone who took the high-season slow boat between Ko Chang, Ko Mak and Ko Kood will likely remember his positive attitude and belt of carved phallic symbols. He was great with kids, always keeping the mood fun and relaxed for travelers. He will be missed.
Mr. Oudtai was a pleasure to be around. (Source: Denis Mitkalev)
Environmental news
Let’s dive in with the Bryde’s whales recently spotted in the Gulf off the coast of Phetchaburi and Samut Songkhram provinces. They surface around here every year and now is a fine time to do some whale watching.
You’ll also find a video of the whales and audio of Lila’s experience at Philip’s Twiter page.
Further south in the Gulf, divers near Ko Tao tried to help a whale shark that was struggling with a scrap of rope twisted around its tale. The effort, captured on video, was unsuccessful and the giant fish fled after being slightly injured. Authorities tried to locate the shark and finish the job, but no updates have been reported.
Coral is looking good around little-known Ko Lao Phi in Pattani province of the Deep Southern Gulf, an area sadly known more for an armed conflict than the beautiful marine life that thrives there. Over in the Andaman, reef sharks and other sea critters are still flocking to the Ko Hong group of islands.
A big snake — some said a king cobra but probably a rat snake — enjoyed an afternoon slither down Ao Yai on Ko Phayam. Over on Ko Samui, Phil of Samui Snake Rescue had a painful run-in with a cobra. He’s now doing okay after a stint in intensive care, although “his hand (was) still ranging between painful and excruciating” as of Sunday. The community has rallied to help.
Phil and team have been performing a crucial service on Ko Samui for years. (Source: Mia Phangan)
Phil wasn’t the only one who endured a painful bite recently, with reports of jellyfish stings at both Hat Nopparat Thara and Ko Lanta in Krabi province. Rough seas have also kept ripping and struggling swimmers were rescued off Phuket in the Andaman and Jomtien in the Gulf. Tons of sea trash have been washing up with the waves, and a French-Thai duo were praised for cleaning beaches in Krabi.
Elephants have also been in trouble. A rubber farmer was charged for killing four jumbos after they wandered outside the borders of Kui Buri National Park. And in Chanthaburi, two baby elephants were killed by an electric fence while trying to enter a fruit orchard. While these were all wild pachyderms, many tourism-driven elephant camps continue to struggle to keep their animals fed as well.
Finally, water spouts were spotted off Songkhla in the Gulf and near Ko Hong in the Andaman. They do not appear to have been a factor when a paraglider crash landed on Khlong Muang Beach in Krabi province, injuring a six-year-old boy.
Did I mention that Ko Lipe has been unlocked?
In Thailand, it’s time to travel
With no locally transmitted Covid-19 infections reported in Thailand for five weeks, all provinces are now open and competing for tourism money. Unless another outbreak causes restrictions to be reinstated, this will probably be my last Covid-19-related domestic travel update. That feels like a milestone.
Tomorrow the country will enter the fifth phase of reopening by allowing all schools and all types of nightlife venues to reopen, provided that they close by midnight. The government did however extend the state of emergency for another month while laying out a list of rules for bars and nightclubs that many in the industry find unreasonable and impossible to enforce. Police are still out busting parties and checking up on physical distancing in restaurants and other spots.
Thailand is entering a new state of reality rather than going back to normal. Many hotels, tour companies and other businesses remain closed, and many attractions like water parks and certain theaters have yet to open. Some businesses will likely stay shut until foreign tourists return, if they ever reopen at all.
The State Railway is resuming full service nationwide tomorrow, albeit with physical distancing measures keeping every other seat empty. Domestic airlines and bus/van companies are gradually adding more departures as well, and the absurd “no foreigners allowed” rule is no longer in place on state-run buses. Many provinces and islands are still requiring travelers to download tracking apps upon arrival, but Phuket is no longer forcing them to register with the police before entering.
While it’s now possible to fully explore the country by public transport, travelers should prepare for long wait times between departures. Some services — such as the Pattaya to Hua Hin ferry and the ferry that normally connects Phuket, Ko Phi Phi and Ko Lanta — have yet to resume. Of course, many island-hopping ferries stop running for rainy season even when Covid-19 isn’t wreaking havoc.
Fancy a train ride?
Expect to have your temperature checked often when traveling, and don’t forget your mask. Yes, even when at the beach.
Ko Lipe joined Ko Samet as the last two islands that are not fully overseen by a national park to reopen. Some of the last shuttered mainland beaches, including the Air Force-controlled Ao Manao outside the capital of Prachuap Khiri Khan, are also reopening. Many national parks are being unlocked tomorrow — I’ll have details on which are open and how to visit in a separate article coming soon.
As for international travel, the government is easing some restrictions on flights from overseas and will start allowing certain foreigners into the country (Coconuts Bangkok has a solid wrap on who can enter). However, all border crossings remain closed to foreigners. A visa amnesty for tourists who got stuck in Thailand is set to expire on August 1st, and there’s been no word yet on whether it will be extended.
A lot of bluster has been in the news about opening “travel bubbles” to tourists from certain countries, and I don’t see any point in going into it until some concrete decisions start to emerge. As it stands, we have no idea when or how foreign tourists will be allowed to visit Thailand again. Hang in there folks.
Social media corner
This week I’m starting a new segment to spotlight an interesting social media thread or account. In response to my recent tweet pointing out a video of Ko Phi Phi in the early 1990s, @Gabribkk posted a photo of one monstrosity of a resort:
I did some research and learned that this is PP Mountain Beach Resort, which opened earlier this year at an inland location in the south of Ko Phi Phi Don. Displaying just how massive it is, @KruDavidNan1 added a photo taken from Ko Lanta. Others chimed in to express their disgust over how this resort was allowed to replace forested land that should have been protected by Mu Ko Phi Phi - Hat Nopparat Thara National Marine Park. I hope to investigate it more down the road.
Video of the week
If you have 40 minutes to spare, check out this video by a pair of British cyclists, Chris and Gab, who halted their world voyage to camp out on an extremely quiet Ko Phi Phi Don after the pandemic-related lockdowns hit. They’ve been living in a tent, filtering sea water to drink and catching their meals with help from local Urak Lawoi fishers. If it strikes your fancy, read more about their adventures at their website.
Back to nature on Phi Phi. (Source: Chris and Gabs World Cycling Tour)
In other news
A conflict over cockles is still raging in Surat Thani, where a 61-year-old cockle farmer suddenly died of heart failure during a recent confrontation with the fishers. I went into some detail about this “cockle war” in the last Island Wrap.
The government has rejected a proposal to hold the Songkran holidays in July, which I mentioned in a previous Island Wrap. It appears that 2020 will be the first year in living memory with no Songkran water-splashing celebrations in Thailand.
Historical conservationists are up in arms after a temple abbot in Samut Prakan “upgraded” a roughly 300-year-old wihaan with floor tiles on the walls after dismantling the original woodcarvings and ceramic roof. The abbot defended his actions when complaints were filed with the Fine Arts Dept.
Speaking of upgrades that not everyone agrees with, Bangkok’s legendary Khao San Road is expected to open in August after a major renovation.
Pattarawadee Saengmanee wrote a terrific piece for Bangkok Post on the artists and heritage houses of Khlong Bang Luang, one of my favorite parts of the city.
Long-haul Asian airline NokScoot has gone out of business. Domestic carrier Nok Airways — yes, the one with the hilarious yellow beak painted on the nose of every plane — will continue to operate in Thailand.
Sticking with the air travel industry, a Thai commercial pilot who is one of many furloughed airline employees has picked up some more modest work as a motorbike delivery man. He told Kocha Olarn of CNN Travel that “I cannot just sit there and wait for help. I have to fight for my family.” 🌴