Welcome to another edition of the Island Wrap, your weekly window to coastal Thailand. The country continues to suppress Covid-19 while inching closer to unrestricted domestic travel. Read on for the latest, including a full rundown of islands and coastal destinations where domestic tourists are already welcome.
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This past week I took a break to recalibrate Thai Island Times, and this will be the last Island Wrap that includes the island, business, charity, and website of the week. But don’t worry! Those will all appear along with a video of the week and perhaps a surprise or two in a new weekly post, called Island Breeze, which will also preview the Island Wrap and other posts that I’m working on. In the Island Wrap, then, I’ll dive straight into the news from coastal Thailand.
For this week, I’m working on a story spotlighting some of the most scenic coastal drives that I’ve embarked on in Thailand. Stay tuned for that.
Over on Couchfish, Stuart dug into the damage that’s still taking its toll on Laos due to “over 270 million sub-munitions” dropped by the United States during the 1960s and ‘70s. He also diverted to the languid Thai lakeside town of Sangkhlaburi and published a moving account of his time in Khao Lak and Ko Phi Phi during the immediate aftermath of the 2004 Asian Tsunami. Check it out.
Getting the feet wet off Ko Phaluai.
Island of the week
Ko Phaluai is the largest of the 42 islands that comprise the Ang Thong group in the southern Thai Gulf. Despite its luscious white-sand beaches, jungle-cloaked interior and karst massifs, very few foreign or Thai travelers ever set foot on the island. A few small resorts and homestays join a fishing village and one dirt lane in the south, while Mu Ko Ang Thong Marine Park oversees most of the northern terrain. Camping is possible on Song Phi Nong Beach, if you bring a tent. Most visitors stop by briefly on a tour, but bear in mind that not many of the group tours launching from Ko Samui and Ko Phangan include a stop at Ko Phaluai. Those looking to overnight on the island can catch a local ferry from Don Sak on the mainland.
Business of the week
With bases on Ko Tao and Ko Phangan, Good Time Thailand accurately describes itself as “your one-stop shop for fun, adventure and accommodation in the Gulf of Thailand.” The spirited crew balances excitement with safety during scuba excursions to Sail Rock, climbing adventures at Fraggle Rock, full moon party trips to Haad Rin, and a range of lodgings found on both islands. Even if you’re not booking their tours or settling into the lodgings, consider stopping by the Sairee Beach bar and cafe for a happening vibe and good food and drinks. Quiz nights, too. Good times!
(Reminder: I receive no payments, freebies or other forms of “pay for play” from businesses featured in the newsletter. Any business you see here is included because, simply put, I like and respect what they’re doing enough to share it.)
A day at Ko Chang’s charity school for migrant kids. (Source: TEFL Heaven)
Charity of the week
Most foreign tourists who visit Ko Chang (Trat) are unaware that many of the workers who serve drinks, clean rooms and renovate resorts are not Thai but rather migrants from nearby Cambodia. In 2008, a Dutch couple founded Cambodia Kids Care to provide a safe, fun and enriching learning environment for children of the thousands of migrants living on the island. Also in the Khlong Prao vicinity you’ll find Sport Buddies, a facility where kids of foreign visitors can bond with local children during games of soccer, takraw, volleyball and more. For details on volunteering and donating to the school, see this post at I Am Koh Chang.
Website of the week
Speaking of I Am Koh Chang, I’m awarding it website of the week in honor of the recent reopening of the “Elephant Island” of Eastern Thailand. Created by a co-manager of the excellent Baan Rim Nam guesthouse, the site is a seemingly bottomless trove of insider knowledge and tips based in reality rather than promotional fluff. Nuanced, regularly updated and covering the basics as well as the more obscure corners of Ko Chang and the surrounding archipelago, it’s the kind of hyper-localized online guide that I wish were available for every Thai island. If you could use a laugh, also give Ian’s associated Twitter account a look.
Happy World Oceans Day!
June 8th was a day to reflect on how human activity is degrading the oceans, from the sea turtles entangled in fishing nets to the coral bleached by warming seas.
Sadly, Thailand marked the occasion with a dugong that washed up dead in mainland Krabi province near Ko Si Boya, an area where some of the last of these gentle and endangered “sea cows” remain in Thailand. The cause of the dugong’s death was not immediately clear, but it was the latest of many dugongs that have been found dead or severely ill over the past year in the Thai Andaman.
The dugong calf Marium became a star last year, but her story did not have a happy ending. (Source: NewsOps)
One such dugong was the eight-month-old “Marium,” who captured hearts while being rehabilitated after she was found sick near Ko Poda last year. Sadly, despite the best efforts of marine biologists, she later died from an infection that was exacerbated by plastic waste in her stomach. Her heart-wrenching story was covered by the BBC and many other news outlets from around the globe.
Marium’s death provoked many Thais to start taking the plastic pollution problem seriously, and it likely contributed to a decision by the government to institute a partial nationwide ban on single-use plastic bags that took effect in January. Yet, as Elizabeth Claire Alberts wrote for Monga Bay, the region and the world still has an extremely long way to go when it comes to cleaning up the oceans.
FYI, a family of dugongs is called a dugongidae.
In other sea mammal news from the Thai Andaman, the Dept. of National Parks posted a video of what appears to be a pair of false killer whales roaming the sea in Mu Ko Tarutao Marine Park. And on Ko Lanta, Jeff O reported that a dolphin was rescued after being beached this past week. Storms continue to hit much of the Thai Andaman, causing rough seas and more flash flooding on Phuket.
Meanwhile, both the New York Times and Bangkok Post recently published reports on the rejuvenation of wildlife in Thailand’s national parks since they were closed due to the pandemic. Also in Bangkok Post, Thana Boonlert produced a comprehensive report on the critically endangered wild tigers of Thailand.
Do spare a thought for the marine life.
Covid-19 update
Thailand reached a milestone in its Covid-19 response last week by going more than 14 consecutive days without reporting a single locally transmitted infection in the entire country. Sadly, last Monday, a man in Narathiwat province became the 58th person to die from the virus in Thailand.
Meanwhile, 31 infections diagnosed among repatriated Thais who were immediately placed in state-run quarantine increased Thailand’s total number of Covid-19 cases to 3,111 as of yesterday, with 88 patients now in hospitals. Their return home with the virus — transmitted in India, Saudi Arabia, Russia, the United States and other countries — does not bode well for the prospect of international tourism.
As for the domestic situation, don’t pop that champagne just yet. Dr. Prasit Wattanapha, a member of Thailand’s Covid-19 task force and dean of the faculty of medical science at the renowned Siriraj Hospital in Bangkok, warned that “he is sure that Thailand will face a second wave of infections,” reported Thai PBS World. Let’s hope he’s wrong.
Interprovincial buses resume
After multiple delays, many of Thailand’s public buses and vans resumed partial service this past week. In the South, private companies and the state-run Transport Co. Ltd. (or Bor Kor Sor) began re-connecting destinations like Betong, Hat Yai, Pakbara, Trang, Ko Lanta, Krabi, Phuket, Phang Nga, Khao Lak, Ranong, Nakhon Si Thammarat, Surat Thani, Ko Samui, and Chumphon.
Trat also joined Chanthaburi by reopening its bus station in the Eastern Gulf near Ko Chang, and minibuses are operating out of Rayong, Pattaya, Chonburi and Sri Racha. The same goes for Hua Hin and other parts of the Central Gulf coast.
While it’s now possible to reach these destinations (and plenty more) from Bangkok and other cities by bus, keep in mind that foreigners are currently not allowed to ride on the government-run Transport Co. buses — at least that is the official line as of yesterday. A representative told us that this is because “foreigners are not being allowed into most provinces,” which is false.
Privately owned operators like Nakhon Chai Air, Cherdchai and Sri Trang are not barring foreigners as a rule. Yet they may discourage travel by Thais and foreigners who intend to travel from a province with local transmission of Covid-19 reported in the past 28 days — such as Bangkok, Phuket and Chonburi — to a province that is still requiring quarantine for travelers who come from those “high risk” areas.
Provinces still requiring some form of quarantine for travelers coming from “high risk” areas include Ranong, Phang Nga, Phuket, Krabi, Trang, Satun, and Songkhla, which are all in he South. Again, that’s the official line; your mileage may vary. Meanwhile, trains continue to roll along in a limited capacity.
Phuket, welcome back to the beach!
Residents of the island province are breathing a sigh of relief today as all beaches reopen following a blanket closure that began more than two months ago.
Congratulations Phuket people, you made it.
Perhaps more surprising was a sudden announcement that hotels could reopen on Phuket, a development that most hoteliers did not see coming. “The holiday island is in a catch 22 situation with the hotels waiting for the guests to return and potential visitors waiting until there are signs of life,” reported The Thaiger.
While most outsiders view the lifting of Phuket’s hotel ban as a positive sign, some hotel owners are complaining that Covid-19-related social security assistance is being cut off despite the fact that tourist arrivals are still close to zero. Their situation is not made any easier by a 14-day quarantine in place for travelers coming from Bangkok and several other provinces included on a “high risk” list.
Phuket Airport is expected to reopen to domestic flights on June 15th, with Nok Air, Thai AirAsia, and Thai VietJet Air all in line to begin flying in from Bangkok. But again, with a 14-day quarantine in place for travelers from Bangkok, it’s hard to imagine many people taking these flights for the time being.
Phuket’s 24 piers have also reopened in some manner, although ferries to Ko Phi Phi and Ko Lanta have yet to resume. Ferries to Ko Yao Noi from Phuket’s Bang Rong Pier have resumed service. Anyone going there from Phuket will most likely be subjected to quarantine on Ko Yao Noi, while travelers heading in the opposite direction to Phuket do not need to quarantine after arriving.
Anyone wanting to visit Phuket should download the “Phuket Smart Check In” app and register at the Phuket Police website. (Not exactly tempting, is it?) If you do go anytime soon, this coupon book-style site spotlights a bunch of discounts offered by local businesses around the island.
Traveling elsewhere in coastal Thailand
In the upper Thai Gulf, the reopening of beaches in Chonburi province last week caused traffic jams as crowds rushed down from Bangkok on Queen Suthida’s birthday, a public holiday. Pattaya Beach remained largely empty as some 5,000 people flocked to nearby Bang Saen Beach, a favorite of Thai travelers. Some took day trips to Ko Lan, where hotels remain closed. The same goes for Pattaya, although serviced apartment types of places are widely available.
Elsewhere in Chonburi province, ferries to Ko Si Chang are up and running and several hotels are now open there, making this historic island a solid option for a getaway from nearby Bangkok. Over in the provincial capital of Chonburi, Tha Ruea Phli seafood market has opened as well. Only 20% of tourist attractions in Chonburi province are now open, however, according to Pattaya Mail.
You are now free to dive the wrecks around Ko Chang. (Source: Dmitry Polyakov)
Further east in the Thai Gulf, the islands of Ko Chang, Ko Mak and Ko Kood can now be freely visited without much hassle and no need for quarantine. In fact, dozens of participating hotels are now offering a “buy one night and get a second night free” deal as part of a promotional campaign aimed at bringing tourists back to Trat province, which was sealed off to most outsiders for two months.
Last Tuesday, secretary of the Trat Tourism Association, Saksit Mungkarn, “said he expected to see about 5,000 tourists coming to (Ko Chang) this weekend,” reported Khaosod English. On social media, BB Divers, Koh Mak Divers and Koh Kood Divers have all started promoting scuba excursions around the archipelago.
Still lagging behind most other popular Thai islands is Ko Samet, which remains closed to the public. Discussions at another meeting between local officials and tourism operators hinted that the island will be unlocked soon, though a date was not set. Ko Samet’s partial inclusion in a national park is being blamed for the delay.
Across the Central Thai Gulf, Hua Hin continues to bag many of the Bangkokians looking for an easy beach break. Having opened to tourism back on May 18th, “Hua Hin saw 100% occupancy rates on May 30th and 31st,” reported Bangkok Post, with “the occupancy for weekdays (in June) running around 60-80%.” With virtually no foreign tourism to speak of, those numbers are astounding.
While Hua Hin is promoting a full reopening of beach activities like horse riding and water sports, the beaches of neighboring Phetchaburi province are hindered by an idiotic rule that no one can swim in the sea. Police at Chao Samran Beach have increased patrols to keep swimmers out of the water. The situation is similar in Cha-am, a beach town that competes with nearby Hua Hin for tourists.
Richard paid Cha-am and Hua Hin a visit last week — see his Twitter account for more details.
Ko Samui, Ko Phangan and Ko Tao all remain open to travelers who are willing to log their body temperature online every day. Visitors to Ko Samui are being asked to download the “Samui Health Pass” app.
In Krabi province, not a single soul took the large ferry on its first day back running between Krabi town’s Khlong Jilad Pier and Ko Phi Phi Don. It joined a pair of speedboats that began the same route with daily services last week and will most likely be sufficient to meet demand for the time being. Over on Ko Lanta, Blue Planet Divers became the first dive outfit to announce its reopening.
In the Ao Nang area of Krabi province, longtail boats are now running between Ao Nammao and Railay, though advanced bookings are recommended. A handful of small hotels are reopening around Krabi, but, as with Phuket, there aren’t nearly enough tourists to make it worth the expense of opening a large hotel.
One of the first post-lockdown speedboats pulls up to Ko Phi Phi Don. (Source: Phi Phi Tourism Business Association)
Krabi’s provincial airport reopened to flights from Bangkok last week. Despite an official line stating that 14-day quarantine is required for travelers coming from “high risk” provinces, several travelers reported being asked to only fill out a form, download the “Doctor Win” app and pass a quick medical screening upon arrival at the airport. One group of foreigners traveling by private van from Chumphon reported entering Krabi province without so much as being stopped at a checkpoint.
Down in Satun province, there’s been no word yet on when Ko Lipe will reopen. As with Ko Samet, it’s partial inclusion as part of a national park seems to be the hiccup. Some national parks will reportedly open their gates before July 1st, with an advanced reservation system in place. “Visitors must make a reservation first. They cannot just walk in,” environment minister Varawut Silpa-archa told Bangkok Post.
Some of the lesser-known Gulf coast beaches that have reopened after some form of closure include Laem Son in Chanthaburi province, Mae Ramphueng in Rayong province, and Thung Wua Laen in Chumphon province. Over on the Andaman side, a well-known viewpoint overlooking Phang Nga Bay reopened as well. And in Bangkok, the Grand Palace and Wat Pho are now open for business.
Hat Thung Wua Laen is one of several serene and beautiful mainland beaches in Chumphon.
Half open won’t cut it
With no local Covid-19 transmission for more than 14 days, I think it’s time to lift the often poorly articulated and unevenly enforced travel restrictions being enforced by some provinces. It’s time to throw the tourism industry a bone.
Consider that beach destinations The Maldives and Tahiti are expected to reopen to international tourism next month after successfully suppressing the virus. In Thailand, on the other hand, restrictions in some of the provinces that rely most heavily on tourism continue to block travelers coming from metro Bangkok, which contains roughly a third of the country’s total population. Along with an immense amount of confusion, the rules are keeping would-be travelers from going out to spend.
“For an export-led economy that also relies heavily on tourism, the Thai economy is being hit by the virus outbreak and lockdown measures like a Mike Tyson left hook and right cross,” wrote Panon Leelamanit for Thisrupt. The article goes on to quote analysts who expect the Thai economy to shrink by 6% and shed 14.4 million jobs this year, including millions in the beleaguered tourism sector.
Reports by Channel News Asia and South China Morning Post also added to an increasingly loud chorus of warnings about the state of the Thai economy. Meanwhile, “the charity group Samaritans of Thailand said it had received between three and five times the normal volume of daily calls to its suicide helpline since the lockdown in late March,” reported Jiraporn Kuhakan in a heartbreaking Reuters story.
A report in TTR Weekly revealed that hundreds of hotels and resorts have gone up for sale in Thai tourist destinations, with large investment firms hovering in search of prices that would have been unthinkably low only a few months ago. More than 100 resorts are already for sale on Ko Samui alone, according to a report by Chiang Rai Times. In Pattaya, bar owners are “pleading” for permission to reopen.
The “fourth phase” of lifting restrictions could allow bars, concert halls and massage parlors to reopen as early as the 22nd of this month, though July 1st seems like a more likely date. For now, an 11:00 P.M. to 3:00 A.M. curfew remains in place nationwide, as does an emergency decree that grants authorities sweeping powers. On June 1st, Buriram became the last Thai province to lift a total ban on alcohol sales.
Physical distancing might be a little hard to maintain during Songkran festivities, when some of the world’s largest and craziest water fights take place all around the country. With the usual April holidays canceled for the first time in centuries (?), some authorities are proposing to hold them next month instead.
In other news
Barring another spike in Covid-19 infections, it’s possible that the Songkran (Thai New Year) holidays could be celebrated from July 4th to 9th after events were cancelled last April. It’s a novel idea, akin to a Western country celebrating the New Year on a random date in April rather than January 1st.
A Bangkok cab driver who contracted Covid-19 way back in early January told Thai PBS World how he has been stigmatized since making a full recovery. Meanwhile, Coconuts Bangkok shared photos of theThai health minister and other officials “totally ignoring their own rules” on physical distancing.
In a video report for Channel News Asia from Bangkok, Saksith Saiyasombut showed how the government’s Thai Chana online contact tracing platform works — and how it’s being mimicked to steal data from users.
In Narathiwat, a Deep Southern Thai province that’s out of sight and mind for many Thais as well as foreigners, locals in Yi-Ngo district have been battling prolonged and widespread wild fires in peat swamps, reported Thai Rath.
And finally, Thisrupt’s Voranai Vanijaka digs into the usage of the non-formal Thai translation of the word, “foreigner.” What do you think, is farang an insult?
Mae Ramphueng Beach is still closed...all 9km of it. Army/Nat'l Park Rangers are ordering people off the beach daily, and have been seen doing it today, June 9.