A visual tour of coastal Thailand

Island Daze #1

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Mr. Lek in Surat thinks it’s about time for some island time.

For my first post, how about a tour of the 21 coastal Thai provinces that are currently in play for this publication? For now, the deep southern provinces of Pattani, Narathiwat and Yala are not covered, but I do hope to make it down there later this year, or next. When I do, I’ll update this post to include them.

To be clear from the start, there is plenty of worrying stuff going on in many of these coastal provinces, from abuse of migrant workers to piles of tidal garbage and erosion caused by overdevelopment. It’s not always pretty, and I’ll be digging into issues like these in Island Watch. But for now, let’s focus on the fun stuff, shall we?

1. Trat

For some reason, I always start with this province that lies wedged into the eastern corner of the Thai Gulf. Its big draw card is Ko Chang (Elephant Island), Thailand’s third largest island and the focal point of a 52-island archipelago that also includes Ko Kood, one of Thailand’s prettiest islands. Community-oriented Ko Mak and dazzling Ko Rang, which attracts quite a few dive boats, are two of the other islands in this archipelago that I’ll be spotlighting in coming posts.

Ko Kood’s Bang Bao Bay is one of precious few Thai beaches that border on the Maldivian.

On the mainland, the provincial capital hosts an old-school backpacker scene. Out east, the province becomes a slender panhandle that narrows to little more than a km — a sign points out this point as “the narrowest point in Thailand.” The Cardamom mountains rise forming the Cambodia border to the north, and some overlooked khaki-sand beaches embrace the Gulf to the south. Though not as popular as Phuket or Surat Thani, Trat province is a mainstay for beach lovers and island hoppers.

2. Chanthaburi

I often refer to Chanthaburi as Thailand’s most underrated province from the standpoint of leisure travel. On the coast you’ll find one of the country’s most scenic seaside roads, leading past several casuarina-lined beaches broken up by viewpoints, oyster farms and estuaries. The beachfront eateries sell locally sourced soft-shell crab dishes for cheaper than in the islands. On Laem Son, the remains of a dungeon and prison date to when Colonial France ruled the province, from 1893 to 1905. One of the petite “Chan” islands is Ko Jeek, set at the mouth of the Welu in crabbing country.

Oyster farming in Chanthaburi.

Known for its gem trade and home to significant numbers of ethnic Vietnamese Catholics and Chong Muslims, the provincial capital has a protected heritage district set along the Chanthaburi River. It ranks as one of the top two or three “old towns” in Thailand, in my opinion. Further inland you’ll find waterfalls, mountains and some of the most fertile fruit-growing country in Thailand. Chinese billionaire Jack Ma, of Ali Baba success, flies in yearly for a plane full of durian.

3. Rayong

Popular among foreign tourists as well as moneyed Bangkokians, Ko Samet is the primary island of Rayong province. Its serpentine figure shelters more than a dozen white-sand beaches and coves. Further east, smaller isles like Ko Thalu and the Ko Man trio are even prettier than Samet, which is dubbed “Magic Crystal Island” in the Sunthorn Phu epic, Phra Aphai Mani. Look for statues depicting characters from this story, including a flute-playing prince, a mermaid and a giant ogress.

On Ko Samet, monks just want to have fun.

The fishing industry occupies much of Rayong’s provincial capital and the tamarind tree-draped waterways that intersect it. The province also has its share of mainland beaches, from the working-class domestic tourism at Laem Mae Phim to miles-long Mae Ramphueng closer to Rayong town. Enjoying a quieter alternative to nearby Pattaya, quite a few expats live around here.

4. Chonburi

Sadly, if you ask me, Chonburi province is best known for the sex tourism at Pattaya, a coastal city of a million strong. I’ve not been there for years and Chonburi is one province that I’ve yet to spend too much time exploring. That will change after Covid-19 related travel restrictions are lifted, because I’m eager to go beyond Ko Si Chang to check out protected, uninhabited islands like Ko Samae San, Ko Khram Yai and Ko Phai. These and many others are overseen by the Thai Navy, based at Sattahip. Of course, there’s also Ko Lan, Pattaya’s own little island.

Monkeys rule the island of Ko Klet Kaeo.

The most unusual of Pattaya’s many family-friendly tourist attractions is the Sanctuary of Truth, an imaginative structure / work of art riddled with intricate carvings based on spiritual themes from Buddhism and Hinduism. There’s also the cruise ship port at Laem Chabang and the town of Sri Racha, the original home of that famous red chili sauce. If you avoid the seediest of Pattaya and opt to stay in the nearby beach towns of Jomtien or Bang Saen, Chonburi province has plenty to offer.

5. Samut Prakan

A small province set southeast of the Thai capital, Samut Prakan is often counted as part of metro Bangkok. As of last year, Bangkok’s metro reaches deep into Samut Prakan via the BTS skytrain. Suvarnabhumi International Airport is barely within the borders of Samut Prakan as well. The best-known area is probably the agricultural confines of Bang Kachao (aka the “Green Lung”), an artificial island wrapped up by the Chao Phraya River and rimmed by urban sprawl.

Buddha striking the “holding back the sea” posture at Wat Khun Samut Jeen.

Samut Prakan has no islands to speak of, but I always enjoy day tripping to the coastal walkway at Bang Pu and the mouth of the Chao Phraya at Pak Nam. Further east, an only boat-accessible temple sits surrounded by sea, a product of the erosion that has steadily eaten the seashore in these parts. The shoreline close to Bangkok tends to be muddy — no beaches but plenty of thriving shellfish.

6. Bangkok

Yes, the Big Mango has a stretch of coastline, albeit a tiny one found in the district of Bang Khun Thian southwest of the city. Take a trip here and you will have a hard time believing that you’re still technically inside of Thailand’s only megacity.

Water-born ways of life persist in Bangkok.

The vibe along Bangkok’s coast is rural, defined by silt flats and fish markets that mirror those in neighboring Samut Prakan and Samut Sakhon. From the coast, drive north for a mere 10 km and you’ll find yourself on crowded city streets.

7. Samut Sakhon

Also considered part of metro Bangkok by some people, this province hosts one of Thailand’s largest fishing hubs at Mahachai. Scenic fruit and flower farms extend away from the highways. Speaking of which, Rama II Road runs through the province and is one of the bumpiest, ugliest highways in the country. Much more picturesque is the province’s primary river: the Tha Jeen.

Harvesting at a “floating vineyard” in Samut Sakhon.

Most people overlook Samut Sakhon on the way to the floating markets of nearby Samut Songkhram and Ratchaburi. There are no islands off the coast and, again, only muddy shores, but the Red Footbridge at Dolphin Point attracts city dwellers in need of a sea breeze. Try the deep-fried squid.

8. Samut Songkhram

Thailand’s smallest province by landmass is famous for floating markets in Amphawa, Tha Kha and other villages. At the provincial capital, the Mahachai Railway Line ends in dramatic fashion at Talat Rom Hup, the “Folding Umbrella Market.” Though most visitors come on day trips from Bangkok, staying canal-side in one of the restored heritage houses makes for a relaxing escape from the city. Rise early to offer food for monks on rowboats.

Tha Kha Floating Market on a full moon day.

Samut Songkhram is historically notable as the birthplace of King Rama II, as well as the site of a camp used by King Taksin during the Siam-Burma War of the late 1760s. An old Thai lifestyle lives on along the banks of the canals and the wide Mae Khlong River. Salt fields join coconut and lychee trees to fill out the terrain. No islands, but “mud surfing” is possible near the seafood market at Don Hoi Lod.

9. Phetchaburi

The last province in the Central Thai Gulf that does not contain an island, Phetchaburi does have a scenic coastline drawing few foreign travelers. To the north, the pink and rusty shades of salt flats extend to the crabbing hamlet of Bang Tabun. Further south, the beaches of Chao Samran and Cha-am are popular with weekending Thais. Fresh seafood and cold beer are easy to find.

Sunset over the salt flats.

Having served as a venue for royal getaways in the 19th century, Phetchaburi hosts three splendid palaces commissioned by the kings Rama IV, V and VI. The most notable is Phra Nakhon Khiri, where King Mongkut (Rama IV) built towering chedis and star-gazing rooms atop a limestone mountain, Khao Wang. The province also hosts the wilds of Kaeng Krachan, Thailand’s largest national park.

10. Prachuap Khiri Kahn

The big-name destination of this long and slender province is Hua Hin, where a long menu of attractions help to make up for the mediocre beaches. I prefer heading further down the coast to the windsurfing hub of Pranburi and on to Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park, named after the 3,000 peaks that top its vertical cliffs of limestone. Home to a couple of uninhabited islands, this the first place when cruising south from Bangkok where the karst scenery of Southern Thailand really starts to dazzle.

A leisurely boat ride in the wetlands of Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park.

Further south (yes, Prachuap’s coastline goes and goes) we reach the provincial capital — one of only three in the country with a seafront found right in town. A monkey-infested hilltop temple and the sheltered Manao Bay are worth a look before you venture to the quieter beach towns of Bang Krut, Bang Saphan Yai and Bang Saphan Noi. Coconut tress abound, and the latter meets Chumphon province with some little-known red sandstone cliffs and sand dunes.

11. Chumphon

When it comes to islands, Chumphon province is best known as a jumping off point for Ko Tao, although this “Turtle Island” is administered by Surat Thani instead. Most travelers miss Chumphon’s own batch of islands, including marine park stunners like the Ko Ngam twins and Ko Rang Ban That, where a chedi sits atop one of the towering cliffs. Rugged, uninhabited Ko Wiang, and Ko Phitak with its laid-back fishing and homestay village, are two more of Chumphon’s islands to keep in mind.

Ever heard of Ko Wiang?

Chumphon also ranks as one of my favorite provinces for exploring the mainland coast. Start at Sairi Beach and stop at the soft white sand of Thung Wua Laen before reaching the province’s remote and stunning north coast. For a broad vista of much of the above, drive up to Matsi Viewpoint. There you’ll find a cafe serving some of the Robusta coffee grown out in Chumphon’s inland mountains.

12. Surat Thani

The large and popular islands of Ko Samui and Ko Phangan, along with similarly busy Ko Tao, attract millions of travelers to “Surat province” each year. Second only to Phuket in size and tourist numbers, Samui is the only other Thai island with an airport and all of the other trappings of mainstream tourism. It is, of course, still gorgeous in the less-traveled corners. Ko Tao hosts more than 30 dive outfits servicing the thousands who arrive seeking PADI certification each year.

There is a lot more to Ko Phangan than full moon parties.

But for me, Ko Phangan is the star of this trio. I go for the natural beauty. And who can forget the Ang Thongs, a group of 42 magnificent islands west of Samui and Phangan. Surat has other islands, too, like sleepy Ko Taen and little-known Ko Nok Taphao. In fact, these only scratch the surface. In the provincial capital, walk south from the riverfront night market to score a longtail boat trip into the languid Tapi River delta. There’s also ancient Srivijaya history at Chaiya, plus Thailand’s most beautiful lake out in Khao Sok National Park.

13. Nakhon Si Thammarat

Known as “Nakhon” among friends, this province draws only a small fraction of the travelers that flock to neighboring Surat Thani and Krabi. Its only island is Ko Kra, a solitary speck of rocks and sand set far out to sea. Some day, I hope to make it there. Miles-long beaches line most of the Nakhon coast, starting with the family-oriented, alternative tourism scene at Khanom to the north. It’s one of the only places left in Thailand where you might spot a pink bottlenose dolphin.

Just a shack on Hat Piti.

Things get quieter as you cruise south past Hat Piti and other windswept beaches on the way down to the fairly large and bustling provincial capital. Here you’ll find the stupas of Wat Mahathat, one of Southern Thailand’s most significant Buddhist sites. The province also hosts the South’s tallest mountain, 1,835-meter Khao Luang. Start a hike up to the summit from Khiri Wong, an ecotourism and fruit-growing village. East of the capital stretches Laem Talumpuk, a cape dotted with seafood joints.

14. Phatthalung

Phatthalung province is not technically on the coast, but it comprises the west bank of Thailand’s largest lake, Thale Sap or Songkhla Lake, which itself reaches to within a couple of km from the Gulf over on the east bank in Songkhla province. In the small capital town of Phatthalung, with its limestone massifs scattered here and there, locals tend to be surprised to see foreigners passing through.

Reflecting spirits in Ban Pak Pra.

North of the Thale Sap you’ll find the Thale Noi, a birdwatching paradise that fills with water lilies and lotuses from March to April. Baskets made from a hearty grass called krajud are easy to find in the eponymous village. Lakeside scenes in Ban Pak Pra often include the spider-like fishing nets that are repeatedly lowered into the lake. Deep fried whole to a crisp, the tiny luk brae fish are delicious in a shredded mango salad.

15. Songkhla

A narrow isthmus, Sathing Phra, stretches between the Thale Sap and the Gulf, with its entire east side rimmed by one of Thailand’s longest beaches. Further south lies the provincial capital of Songkhla, a low-key town with heritage architecture overlooking the lake; and a beach, Samila, fronting the Gulf. It’s more pleasant than Hat Yai, 30 km to the west, which is the largest city in Southern Thailand. West of Hat Yai looms one of the South’s most impressive waterfalls: Ton Nga Chang.

The bridge between Sathing Phra (in background) and Ko Yo, with Songkhla town off to the right.

In the Gulf, Songkhla province has only a few little uninhabited islands near the provincial capital. But the Thale Sap has islands, too, including Ko Yo with its fishing villages and Museum of Southern Thai Folklore. Find a boat driver and go.

16. Satun

Ko Lipe is the star of Satun, Thailand’s southwestern-most province and the first on this list that’s located on the Andaman Sea coast. Lipe is heavily developed, yes, but still a beauty. It’s only the fourth largest island in the Adang (or Butang) Archipelago, which also includes the mountainous, undeveloped islands of Ko Adang, Ko Rawi and Ko Tong, to name a few. The diving be decent down here.

Ko Lipe’s Sunrise Beach as seen from Chadoe Cliff on Ko Adang.

Satun also covers rugged Ko Tarutao, Thailand’s fourth largest island and a prison site during the World War II period. Amazingly, it has remained entirely uninhabited save a few national park cabin zones and ranger stations. Satun’s more offbeat islands with no development include Ko Khao Yai, which houses a lagoon that can only be reached by kayak, and Ko Lidi with a campground of its own. Further south, little-known Ko Yara Tot hosts a Muslim fishing village near Malaysian water. There’s not much to do on the mainland, but I always enjoy a night in the low-key provincial capital.

17. Trang

One of my personal favorites, Trang was the first province I covered for Travelfish back in October 2011. Since then, I’ve returned more times than I can count — hell, I might retire there someday. I love Ko Mook, a notably friendly island that’s also home to the Emerald Cave, while Ko Kradan and Ko Lao Liang boast some of the finest Andaman scenery in the country. There’s also Ko Libong and Ko Sukorn, two mid-size islands where the goats and water buffalo outnumber the travelers.

Getting the feet wet with a look over to Ko Waen (left), Pakmeng (background) and Ko Muk (right).

Mainland Trang province has some decent beaches, including the khaki sand of Hat Chao Mai set between limestone massifs. The first rubber tree in Thailand still grows in historic Kantang, the last stop on the short Andaman branch of the the Southern Railway Line. There’s also a train station in the capital, one hell of a food town. Sample the bitter local coffee and signature roasted pork belly. Further inland, several waterfalls churn down from the Ban That mountains.

18. Krabi

I’ve spent more time in Krabi than any coastal province other than Bangkok, including a few months hanging around the Nopparat Thara Beach area last year. Despite being a major tourism draw, Krabi retains a laid-back vibe in the funky riverside capital as well as the beaches that stretch northwards. One of my favorites is Khlong Muang, which lies in the shadow of the Khao Ngon Nak ridge line.

Looking down from the lighthouse on Ko Lanta’s southern tip.

Islands include the famous Ko Phi Phi twins and Ko Lanta, whose popular west-coast beaches extend for miles. Another hotspot is Railay, a peninsula that pulls in rock climbers looking to scale the craggy karst. Then there’s arcadian Ko Si Boya and the slightly busier Ko Jum, whose name switches to Ko Pu in the north of the island around a mountain that I call Mt. Puji. Next time I’ll hike to the summit, I promise. Krabi province is also a diving mainstay, with boats running from various points to the marine park islands of Ko Poda, Ko Haa, Ko Rok, Ko Ngai and more.

19. Phuket

At 543 sq. km, Phuket is the largest island in Thailand. It’s also the only Thai province consisting entirely of islands. Extremely popular with all sorts of travelers, it’s a complete package with lively beaches, quiet beaches, nightlife, viewpoints, street markets and heritage architecture in the seafront capital. It hosts a large expat community along with an international airport and a bridge to the mainland. Though it began life as a tin mining hub more than a century ago, Phuket’s economy is primarily based on tourism nowadays.

Phuket: Come for the beaches, stay for the gaeng nua and tam mamuang.

Diving is big business on Phuket, with day-trip boats often focusing on the Ko Raya twins set well south of the main island. These are only two of many small islands, like Ko Naka and Ko Maphrao, that join the main island like moons or satellites hovering near a planet. Phuket lies at the center of the Thai Andaman, anchoring the tourism scene on that west coast of Thailand’s stretch of the Malay Peninsula.

20. Phang Nga

Phang Nga is best known for its bay of the same name, where the limestone cliffs of dozens of islands rise dramatically from the emerald water. Two highlights are Ko Panyi with its floating soccer pitch; and the “James Bond Island” of Ko Ping Kan, so called thanks to its role as evil scientist hideout in the The Man With The Golden Gun. Further south you’ll find the larger twin islands of Ko Yao, and the Ko Hong group centered around the “Room Island” named after a marvelous lagoon.

Nang Thong Beach after a storm.

The mainland beaches around Khao Lak attract families, including many who venture to the sublime Similan or Surin groups of marine park islands. Further north, the quaint village of Ban Nam Khem lies across a river from Ko Kho Khao, a close-to-shore island that almost feels like an extension of the mainland beaches. The unusual landscape on neighboring Ko Phra Thong consists of savannah, with spindly trees and tall grass growing from its inland dunes. The 2004 Asian Tsunami hit this area hard; pay your respects to those lost at several museums and memorials.

21. Ranong

The northernmost province on the Thai Andaman coast delivers a pair of ultra-relaxing mid-size islands: Ko Phayam and Ko Chang, where fragrant cashew trees add to the back woods ambiance. Both are popular with old-school backpackers who appreciate nature and the bars draped in red, yellow and green. While you won’t find the best beaches on either, a boat trip will introduce you to the unspoiled, powdery sand shores of Ko Kham and other petite isles of the Laem Son group.

Island bound from Ranong town.

Ranong’s provincial capital sits at the gaping mouth of the Kra Estuary across from Kawthoung in Myanmar’s southernmost point, where it’s possible to cross the border. You’ll see brilliant scenery on the roads that cut north alongside the estuary, as well as further inland around the vicinity of Ranong Canyon and some hot springs. Some of the dive outfits in Ranong town will take you to sites in both Thailand and Myanmar, and I know of one that runs a yearly trip all the way to India’s Andaman Islands. That is one journey I hope to take while my bones are strong.